Part 4. Clarno Unit – John Day Fossil Beds.
Today we will go from the most visited unit of the Fossil Beds (the Painted Hills) to the least visited (Clarno). Mitchell is the best epicenter for visiting all the units of the National Monument although it is a very small town. There are three restaurants, a historic hotel, vacation rental homes, and a small city park with RV hookups.
The Clarno Unit is located 18 miles west of the town of Fossil on OR-218. This area makes a nice half day destination either when heading from Shaniko to the Painted Hills or when driving north from an overnight stay in Mitchell.
The Palisades that formed from layers of lava, lahars, welded tuffs, conglomerates, and mudstones between 54 and 39 million years ago in a lush sub-tropical rainforest environment are the most prominent feature of the unit. Petrified wood and leaves from at least 173 species have been found in the area.
You can learn about the geology of the area through three short hikes.
Trail #1. Geologic Time Trail. This is a 0.25-mile one-way, level interpretive trail that provides great views up toward the rocky cliffs of the Palisades. A walk along the trail transports you through 35 million years of geologic history. This easy trail is really a journey through time. There are interpretive signs along the trail that describe the environment at each point in history. At the start of the trail, you are walking through the geology of 50 million years ago when tiny four-toed horse precursors roamed here. As you continue along the trail, you walk on the volcanic mudflows of 44 million years ago and then on to the area where the climate became more temperate 30 million years ago. Next are the remnants of the Columbia River basalt flows that buried the landscape up to 3 miles deep in some areas 17 million years ago. At the end of the trail, you have reached the geology of 5 million years ago when the landscape from the present climate began to form. If you look carefully along the way, you can see some fossil leaves in the rocks. This trail ends at a parking lot/picnic area. Turning around takes you back to access the other two trails.
Trail #2. Trail of Fossils. This is an easy 0.25-mile loop reached from the Geologic Time Trail. This trail features plant fossils viewable in the large boulders that are strewn below the cliffs. These fossils are from a sub-tropical forest environment 44 million years ago. The boulders contain dozens of visible fossil plants.
Trail #3. Clarno Arch Trail. This 0.5 mile out and back trail climbs about 200 feet over 0.25 miles to the base of the Palisades. A section of the trail is shown here.
If you look up about 40 feet above the trail while walking along the base of the cliffs, you can see a fossilized log that had been carried along and partially buried by a lahar. The trail ends at a small, delicate natural arch formed through the erosion of the welded tuff rock of the cliff.
If you look up from the base of the cliff to the arch, you see a stair-step pattern caused by the pooling of water as it eroded the rock. Looking at the back of the channel in this photo, you can see erosion in process with the water seeping into the rock.
Although this trail is a somewhat steep climb that is rocky in places, it is well worth an hour of your time. Although you can hike in this area any time of year, late fall through early spring is an excellent time for a visit. This is rattlesnake country so be aware of their possible presence in warm weather.
Although not open for visitors, the Hancock Mammal Quarry, where the remains of rhinoceroses, horses, and many other mammal fossils have been unearthed, is just to the north of the Palisades area. You can see a mural depicting the mammals that inhabited the area, fossil displays and watch scientists working on fossils in the laboratory at the Thomas Condon Paleontology Center in the Sheep Unit of the Monument.
While driving, keep keep your eyes peeled for the current day wildlife that inhabits the area. There are Bighorn Sheep in the Service Creek area. Deer and pronghorns are often seen in fields along the road.
Great inspiration for a future road trip to see some specific places not yet seen!